The Fashion of Bag

Yes, it always seems like so many styles are 'in style' at the same time. Well, that's the great (and bad) thing about the fashion industry now, you get more choice! With this season's earthy theme, straw bags are obviously 'in'. Fashion editors have approved it, and think it's perfect for a summer chic look.

Personally I suggest that straw bags will look better with shorts, capris or skirts, instead of long pants. I also think they will look best with wedges rather than flats. But it's really up to your personal style and body shape.
Here is some of the best offers this season:

Look elegant and posh with this Kate Spade Monoco Wicker Roll Bag.

Super kawaii (cute) pick: Coach Lady Bug Applique Boxy Tote.

I LOVE this Kate Spade clutch (Rivera Straw Nikki Clutch). It's perfect for shopping around in your neighbourhood, esp if you live in rich places like Knightsbridge and Beverly Hills.

Another one of my favourite and a cheaper alternative. This Straw Doctor Bag from Urban Outfitters is very spring pretty and looks like its actually practical.

Yes, I know it's made of crochet and not straw, but its so rare to see one that is so bright and colorful. It looks like a straw bag anyways. Large Crochet Stripe Shopper by Accessorize.


Source : http://iamfashion.blogspot.com/2005/04/bag-trends-spring-summer-2005-straw.html

The Nude beach Fashion

A nude beach (British English: naturist or nudist beach) is a beach where users are legally at liberty to be nude. Sometimes the terms clothing-optional beach or free beach are used. Nude bathing is one of the most common forms of nudity in public. As beaches are usually on public lands, any member of the public is entitled to use the facilities without membership of any movement or subscription to any philosophy. The use of the beach facilities is normally anonymous. Unlike a naturist resort or facility, there is normally no membership or vetting requirement for the use of a nude beach. The use of nude beach facilities are usually casual, not requiring pre-booking. Nude beaches may be official (legally-sanctioned), unofficial (tolerated by residents and law enforcement), or illegal.

A nude beach should not be confused with a topfree beach or topless beach, where upper body clothing is not required for women or men, although a swimming costume covering the genital area is required for both men and women.

Nude beaches first became popular in the 1950s along the French coast^[1] and have since spread around the world, though they are still few and far between. Some nude beaches are part of a larger nude area, such as the Cap d'Agde area. Most beaches in Denmark^[2] and all beaches in Norway are clothing optional.

Nude beaches tend to be segregated or isolated physically from the non-nude areas. In other instances people maintain a comfortable space between beach users. Signage is often used to warn beach users about what to encounter and/or to segregate different areas on the beach. This accommodates people who are not comfortable with nudity (see gymnophobia). This also accommodates beach users who do not like to be watched too much, especially by clothed individuals (see voyeurism).

On an officially sanctioned nude beach beach goers of both sexes have an option to remove their clothing without fearing legal prosecution or official harassment.

Clothes free organizations such as the Naturist Action Committee have lobbied against laws banning nude swimming and sunbathing.

Motivation

People visit a nude beach for any of a number of reasons. These range from people who see no reason to wear clothing when taking part in water activities or sunning, or who enjoy being nude or partially nude (see naturism and nudism). Some people visit a nude beach because they enjoy looking at people who are nude, or because of curiosity. Some people sunbathe on a nude beach to get a more even suntan, and to eliminate tan lines.

Types of nude beaches

Sign on a beach in Greece

Sign on the beach at Cap d'Agde

Beach in Koktebel.

Most nude beaches had become accepted after many years of use as nude beaches. Many are "unmanaged" beach areas that have been adopted by the local users in an effort to maintain the beach's "quality". Others' right to existence has been recognized as such by the appropriate local authority, and are termed "official" (although not necessarily legitimate).

There are several categories of nude beaches:

• Beaches where nudity may be compulsory, subject to weather conditions. This is common in dedicated nudist resorts.
• Beaches where nudity is encouraged but not mandatory. This is more common when the beach is part of a private resort or other private property. On such beaches most people go nude but not all.
• Clothing is optional (i.e., nudity is permitted but not required) All beaches in Denmark and Norway are clothing optional. The most popular U.S. clothing optional beach may be Haulover Beach in Miami-Dade County, which has a clothing optional section officially designated by Miami-Dade County, with lifeguards and concessions. On such beaches there may be a mixture of nude, clothed and everything in between. For some clothed people the clothing-optional status only makes them less reluctant to expose themselves briefly when changing clothes.
• Unofficially sanctioned public nude beaches - places where nudity is tolerated by the "authorities", mostly by turning a blind eye, or not enforcing the local laws.
• Illegal nude beaches - which may result in requests to cover up, uncomfortable glares, a fine or arrest. Places where people dare to go nude, but try to keep a low profile because they could well get in trouble.

Legal position

Family in Brazil, Praia do Abricó

Most beaches around the world, including nude beaches, are on public lands. That means that though private resorts and hotels that adjoin a beach may enclose their property behind fences with controlled access, most countries do not allow private ownership of the actual beach area. Thus, while a resort can control access and set clothing standards on its property, these standards would not necessarily apply to the beach itself, which remains subject to local laws or customs, and public access to the beach itself usually remains unrestricted. This applies, for example, to the islands in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Florida. On the Seven Mile Beach in Negril, Jamaica, for example, though the beach is lined with private resorts with fences down to the sand/waterline, the beach itself is open to the public. Though actual clothing standards vary from resort to resort, the beach area is officially designated as "topfree", and public access is unrestricted.

The International Naturist Federation has developed a code of conduct, or etiquette, for use by member organizations. The INF nude beach etiquette requires the avoidance of all forms of sexual harassment and sexual activity, such as masturbation or sexual intercourse. Predatory behavior is not permitted, nor is unauthorized photography. ^[3] In general, the standards call for the respecting of the privacy of other visitors. Staring is frowned upon by rule and social pressure.^[4]

However, unlike nudist resorts and hotels, which can enforce standards of conduct on their properties promptly and effectively, most nude beach are on public lands making the enforcement of standards of nude beach etiquette a more personal matter, subject to the deterrence of local laws. The standards of conduct take different forms in different countries. Other than the fact that people using a nude beach expect to find naked people on the beach, most other local laws and customs continue to apply. One should note especially that nude beaches are usually family beaches with children being present.

Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nude_beach

The Boutique

A boutique, from the French word for "shop," is a small shopping outlet, especially one that specializes in elite and fashionable items such as clothing and jewelry.

The term entered into everyday English use in the late 1960s when, for a brief period, London, UK was the centre of the fashion trade. Carnaby Street and the Kings Road were the focus of much media attention as home to the most fashionable boutiques of the era.

It can also refer to a specialised firm such as a boutique investment bank or boutique law firm. The word is often used to describe a property in the independent section of the hotel market (such as The Rockwell in London) in order to distinguish themselves from larger chains (such as Hilton Hotels). In such cases the idea is that the operation is elite and highly specialised.

In the strictest sense of the word, boutiques would be one-of-a-kind but more generally speaking, some chains can be referred to as boutiques if they specialise in particularly stylish offerings.

Recently, the term "boutique" has started being applied to normally-mass-market items that are either niche or produced in intentionally small numbers at very high prices. This may be referred to as boutique manufacturing. For example, before the release of the Wii, a Time Magazine article suggested that Nintendo could become a "boutique video-game company", producing games for niche audiences, rather than trying to compete directly with Microsoft and Sony.^[1]

Although some boutiques specialise in hand-made items and other truly one-of-a-kind items, others simply produce t-shirts, stickers, and other fashion accessories in artificially small runs and sell them at unusually high prices.

In late 1990s some European retail traders developed the idea of tailoring a shop towards a lifestyle theme, in the form of "concept stores",^[2][3] which specialised in cross-selling without using separate departments. One of the first concept stores was 10 Corso Como^[4] in Milan, Italy followed by Colette^[5] in Paris and Quartier 206^[6][7] in Berlin. Several large American chains such as Urban Outfitters^[8][9], Billabong and The Gap^[10] adapted to the concept store trend after 2000.

Source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boutique

The Models Contest

Ann Lauterbach will judge the 2009 Omnidawn Poetry Contest

Submissions accepted by Omnidawn March 1 – June 30, 2009

The 2009 Omnidawn Poetry Prize is Omnidawn Publishing’s second annual contest for a first or second full-length collection of poems by a poet writing in English. The contest will be judged by Ann Lauterbach, with a cash prize of $2,000 and Fall 2010 publication by Omnidawn Publishing with full publicity and advertising of the book to Omnidawn standards. Manuscripts will remain anonymous until a winner is selected.

Deadline:

— Envelope must be postmarked on or between March 1st of 2009 and June 30th of 2009.

General Guidelines:

— The entering manuscript must be your first or second full length poetry book. (If you have written two or more poetry books that have been published or accepted for publication you are ineligible for this contest.) Chapbook publication has no bearing on this.
— The poet must be writing in English. Translations are ineligible.
— Entry fee of $25 must accompany each submission; make check payable to Omnidawn Publishing. We cannot accept any other form of payment at this time.
— The entry fee entitles you to one Omnidawn title from our catalogue. Please see website page "Omnidawn Titles" for full catalogue of books from which you can choose. If you would like to receive an Omnidawn book of your choice and you live in the United States include a US Post Office 9.5"x 12.5" Flat Rate Priority Mail Envelope with $ 4.80 standard postage stamp(s) to cover shipping. Do NOT use computer generated postage such as Click-n-Ship, E-Stamps, or Endicia because this postage is date and zip code specific and we cannot use it. On the outside of the envelope please write in the title you are requesting. We will enclose your book in a protective mailer, place it in your envelope, and mail it to you. If you do not include a Stamped Flat Rate envelope we will assume you are not interested in receiving a book. (If you live outside the U.S. and would like an Omnidawn title please add $12.00 for postage to the entry fee for a total of $37.00 (U.S. Dollars) and include a self addressed envelope with the name of the book you want printed on the front.)
— Multiple submissions to this contest are acceptable but each manuscript must be entered under separate cover, each with separate check for entry fee.
— Simultaneous submissions are fine but please let us know if your manuscript is accepted by another publisher while under our consideration.
— No revisions to submitted manuscripts will be considered.

Manuscript Submission Requirements:

— We recommend that the manuscript be no fewer than 40 pages and no more than 70 pages. The manuscript should be paginated with a table of contents and enclosed in a standard manila folder. Nothing should be written on the manila folder. Each manuscript should include one cover page with title of manuscript only and a second cover page with title plus your name, address, telephone number, email address. If you have requested a free book please list the requested title below your contact information.
— Please do NOT include an acknowledgements page or a cover letter or bio.
— Please do NOT contact us with queries regarding the status of your submission. Your cancelled check will indicate that we have received your entry.
— Please do NOT enclose a SASE for return of manuscript; all manuscripts will be recycled at the end of our contest. Please notify us if you move or change your email address or phone number; send new address, email address, or phone number to: submissions@omnidawn.com.
— We will announce the contest results on our web page.
— Mail manuscript and entry fee to:

OMNIDAWN POETRY PRIZE
Omnidawn Publishing
311 Monterey St
Vallejo, CA 94590
—Please do NOT send Fed Ex, UPS or signature-required USPS express mail envelopes; they will not be accepted.

How We Judge:
The entries are logged into a database by an assistant not associated with the reading process who registers the personal address information of the entrant, the title of the manuscript, assigns it a number and removes all identifying materials. The manuscripts are then anonymously submitted to the editors of Omnidawn for screening. Omnidawn does not use interns or students to screen for this contest. For the sake of avoiding any conflict of interest, if one of the readers recognizes the work of a colleague, student, or friend, then that manuscript is given to another editor. The final judge receives the top manuscripts from which to select the winner. If the final judge wishes to see additional manuscripts she may request them; the judge is not, however, permitted to request specific manuscripts. Friends, colleagues, and students of the judge are not eligible to compete. The judge is not allowed to choose manuscripts that present a conflict of interest.

Omnidawn abides by The CLMP Code of Ethics: The Council of Literary Magazines and Presses’ community of independent literary publishers believes that ethical contests serve our shared goal: to connect writers and readers by publishing exceptional writing. We believe that intent to act ethically, clarity of guidelines, and transparency of process form the foundation of an ethical contest. To that end, we agree to 1) conduct our contests as ethically as possible and to address any unethical behavior on the part of our readers, judges, or editors; 2) to provide clear and specific contest guidelines -- defining conflict of interest for all parties involved; and 3) to make the mechanics of our selection process available to the public. This Code recognizes that different contest models produce different results, but that each model can be run ethically. We have adopted this Code to reinforce our integrity and dedication as a publishing community and to ensure that our contests contribute to a vibrant literary heritage.

Book Production, Distribution, Advertising, and Complimentary Copies:
The prize winning book will be produced, distributed, and advertised to Omnidawn standards and will also meet the Green Press Initiative standards and have the Green Press Initiative statement on the copyright page. The book will be printed using the same archival quality acid-free paper and full four-color cover used for other Omnidawn books. As with other Omnidawn books, we will encourage the winning poet to participate in the design of the book, including choice of typefaces, cover colors and artwork, with all stages subject to the approval of the winning poet. The book will be distributed worldwide by Omnidawn's distributor, Independent Publishers Group, and will be advertised along with other Omnidawn books in Poets & Writers Magazine, American Poetry Review, American Book Review, Rain Taxi, and other publications. All costs, including production, distribution, and advertising will be fully paid for by Omnidawn. In addition to the $2,000 cash prize, the winning poet will also receive 100 copies of the book free of charge.

Source : http://www.omnidawn.com/contest/contest_guidelines.htm

The Cowboy Fashion

Technically speaking, all Stetson Company hats can be branded as a Stetson. However, American popular culture has created for us the image of a Stetson hat as the classic cowboy hat. Cowboy hats are distinguished as having wide brims and high, distinctly-shaped crowns. Straw, fur, and wool felt are the common materials used for making these hats. Straw, aside from being cheaper, is the best hat for during hot weather. However, age and long wear might cause it to become brittle. For durability, fur felt hats of either beaver or rabbit are best though more expensive. If you think that you can put on any cowboy hat and it will do, you might be surprised that there are fashion do's and dont's when it comes to wearing one.

Banish the thought that real cowboys only wear one hat. Real cowboys have several cowboy hats and other than function, they have other reasons. First, straw and hats of light color are fashionable and must be worn only in the summer or dry seasons. This is because they are airy, breathable, and as your science teacher always says, light colors absorb less heat. Second, the season for dark colored and felt hat is during the colder months. Aside from protecting the head against the bitter weather, these hats also absorb more heat, thereby keeping the cowboy warm. Though no clear reason is given why, white hats are no-no after the celebration of Labor day. You might just be branded as a fashion flop if you do so.

Okay you got your hat and you know how to wear one, but still, it's not enough to project a cowboy image. Cowboys follow certain etiquette when wearing hats, and you would do yourself a good deed to do as they do. Cowboy hats are not worn indoors except in public places that are enclosed and large (malls, square dance halls). Like all other hats, take it off when seated at a table, especially during meals. Wearing it while dining gives the impolite impression that you're in a hurry to finish eating and leave. A big no is wearing it inside Churches. If you feel like wearing it in a church, by all means attend service at a Cowboy Church.

Cowboys pay respect to ladies. Doff your hat to passing ladies by way of greeting and respect. Don't exclude men in uniform either. Church officials are also rendered the same courtesy. To do this properly, bow your head slightly at an angle and hold your hat by its crown. Lift it slightly as if taking it off, pause, and place it back. During services that require standing for a period of time (flag ceremonies, mass) hold your hat by its crown at chest level as if in a semi-hug. Now that you've learned your hat basics and etiquette, brush your cowboy hats and head out. The town needs you partner.

Source : http://ezinearticles.com/?Cowboy-Fashion-Dos&id=208698

The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in miami 2008

Singer Usher kicked off the Victoria's Secret show Saturday, which featured 35 supermodels, some wearing angel wings. Models including Heidi Klum and Adriana Lima strutted down the runway at the newly renovated Fontainebleau Miami Beach during the show, which coincided with the opulent reopening of the hotel.

"The theme of the show is a return to glamour," said company CEO Sharen Turney. "Victoria's Secret is about sexy and the new sexy is glamorous for this season."

The catwalk glittered and two silver palm trees adorned the stage. Models showed 68 outfits, including the $5 million Black Diamond Fantasy Miracle Bra worn by Lima and designed by jeweler Martin Katz. It is decorated with white and black diamonds and rubies, and will be for sale in the company's catalog, Katz said.

"You could wear it as an open top," he said. "It looks like a finished top."

Lima said she was excited to be wearing it.

"I always wanted to wear the Fantasy Bra. It's the first time that Victoria's Secret makes a black diamond bra," Lima said. "A woman could definitely buy it if they love it and men too."

Themes in the show included glamorous goddesses and bold colors with geometric designs influenced from the 1920s. Professional dancers wore one-piece bathing suits for one segment and models got playful with Usher when he performed.

There were also designs from the youthful Pink collection, along with pastels, florals and a black tie theme.

Models wore gilded bras with Swarovski crystals attached. There was also a gold sculpted feather body piece that curved around the model's body. Metal sculpted laurel leaves were also worn around some of the models' necks.

Model Karolina Kurkova wore a bra and underwear in a diaphanous hand-dyed, pleated, draped gown with a leather belt and gilded feather jewelry. Meanwhile, Klum was in a cutaway evening gown of handprinted silk, tulle and duchess satin, decorated with red roses.

Another model wore a crystal yarn, knitted catsuit with a hard leather lacquer belt and boots by Pierre Hardy.

For the Pink collection, a model wore a recycled plastic bag jacket and skirt on top of a handknitted bra and boy briefs.

A model also walked down the runway in a quilted, velvet body corset embellished with ostrich feathers and crystals.

It's "a celebration of sophistication and elegance ... our way to do a new take on holiday celebrations," said Todd Thomas, the costume designer.

For the finale, Klum stepped onto the catwalk in a red bra, underwear and sparkling, red wings, which were made to resemble a bow on a present.

Wing designer Martin Izquierdo made seven pairs of wings for the show. He said he turned to Greek mythology, butterflies and even designed a pair with spiderwebs on rose branches that are composed of crystals.

Miranda Kerr, who wore the wings with the multicolored butterflies, said "it adds a whole theatrical aspect" to the show.

Meanwhile, celebrities spotted on the pink carpet included P. Diddy, Russell Simmons, Michelle Trachtenberg, John Stamos, Kim and Kourtney Kardashian and Martha Stewart.

"We watch the show every year on TV, so it's really cool to see it in person," Kim Kardashian said.

Debbie Harry said she likes the big production.

"The show, it's based on lingerie, but it's about creating an event," she said. "It's just a big, wild extravaganza and I think that's what attracts me."

Ed Razek, chief marketing officer and the show's executive producer, said each year's event has to top the one before.

"It's the most watched fashion show in the world," Razek said. "You've got an obligation to do a better show every year."

The show will air on CBS at Dec. 3 at 10 p.m.

Source :
http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,452786,00.html

The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 2008

Every year, Victoria’s Secret has their lingerie fashion show and every year I check my mailbox for an invite and every year I find a reminder from the court telling me to stay 500 yards away from all Victoria’s Secret models. Next year it’s going to be different. Watch out Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, Ana Beatriz Barros, Heidi Klum, Selita Ebanks, Doutzen Kroes, Miranda Kerr, Izabel Goulart and all the rest. This sexy beast is coming for you. So, please, don’t warn the cops and don’t even try to hide your underwear. I’ll find it eventually. I’ve been practicing with my Where’s Waldo books. A few more after the jump or click any photo for the full gallery.



Source : http://theblemish.com/2008/11/the-victorias-secret-fashion-show-2008/

18 trends at London Fashion Week 2008

Spotted

Hilary Riva (the chief executive of the British Fashion Council): hard at it on the fashion frontline, tackling press, designers, bidding farewell to Sir Stuart Rose and finding time after the Biba show on Sunday for some all-important shoe shopping at Venise Collection, conveniently placed next to the show venue. It’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it.

The usual front row suspects were there: Kelly Osbourne, Lily Allen and Alexa Chung. But LFW is all about the unexpected, so no one batted an eyelid when Lord Coe took his seat at Jaeger. Might they be creating Team GB’s kits for the 2012 Olympics? The award for the most embarrassing moment goes to Kimberly Stewart, who edged Pixie Geldof off stage while being interviewed by a TV crew after the Biba show. Geldof looked awkward, Stewart didn’t even notice.

Scandal?

After the Ossie Clark relaunch on Monday, his sons – who did not attend – sought legal advice on how to reclaim their father’s name and prevent its “continued unauthorised exploitation” (in the PR’s words). They claim that the trademark was licensed without the family’s knowledge and consent. Quorum OC Limited, who instigated the label’s revival, say that it has all the necessary authorisations.

Super size me

It’s out with the salads and in with the pie and mash. On the first floor of the fashion tents is a pub, the New Gen Arms, which serves beer, hearty grub and even boasts a braces-wearing landlord. Good news for all those mourning the temporary loss of the fashionable Hawley Arms in Camden.

Swag

This year it’s out with the goodie bags and in with the free cotton ones. Mulberry’s version is not only a wicked trompe l’oeil of the infamous Roxanne bag, but is perfect for holding your tickets, flat shoes and the key accessory of the week, water. “I found love with a Geek at London Fashion Week” is one natty slogan – it alludes to the not-so-glamorous IT support team, the Geek Squad, but it also adorns their trademark tote. If you’re feeling super chic only Anya Hindmarch’s leather document holders will do – emblazoned with the owner’s name to avoid any front-row confusion.

Survivors

They came, they conquered, and like the humble cockroach not even a nuclear explosion could knock them down. These are the trends, seen on the street, that just won’t die:

Heavy fringes: even better if they get in your eyes;

Ankle boots:best with mini skirts and opaque tights;

The YSL Downtown: in patent leather (so you can wipe off the champagne);

Leggings: yes, they are still here, and becoming more ski-pant style with every show;

Slogan T-shirts:. . . and bags – everywhere;

Leather jackets: cropped, black and not a motorbike in sight;

Blazers: the more tuxedo-style, the better.

TRENDS

Hats

There have been as many on the front row as on the catwalk. Every permutation from the panama (in February?), the bowler, the porkpie, the flat cap and even a high-topped Peruvian style (in red). Needless to say, no one removed the headwear inside, not even in that most traditional of British venues, Claridge’s ballroom. This is London Fashion Week: they like to break the rules.

Sunglasses

Only the fashion folk do sunglasses in winter. OK, it has been quite sunny this week, but inside? In Claridge’s? Where you need a torch to read a menu even without shades? A step too far – or maybe someone’s hiding a hangover.

Amy Winehouse eye make-up

Predictable but inevitable. Cat’s flicks are de rigueur these days, and beehive hairdos aren’t far behind. Agyness Deyn wannabes – complete with blonde crops – were also back in force.

NHS reading glasses

Well not quite. Heavy framed, square glasses are this week’s pervasive nod to geek chic. Whether or not the lenses are prescription is another matter.

On the catwalk

Fringeing, architectural shoulders, short skirts, weird tights, ruffles (everywhere), military coats, black (it’s back), high-waisted trousers.

INSIDER'S GUIDE

Natalie Massenet, founder and chairman of net-a-porter.com: I can’t survive London Fashion Week without my team and my oversized Saba tote by Jimmy Choo (below). It is chic yet spacious enough to hold everything I need during the day.

Sara Berman, designer: Because I like to wear pieces from the new collection, I rely on Bodas underwear; it’s comfortable (the days on the stands at LFW are very long) and it gives me clean lines and doesn’t show through delicate fabrics.

Joan Burstein, the owner of Browns: I always have Holland & Barrett zinc lozenges in my handbag because they fend off the germs and keep me on top form during the mad rush that is LFW.

Leah Wood, the model and daughter of Rolling Stone Ronnie: I always carry lip balm around with me, Alba coconut cream to be precise. My lips get really dry at fashion week. And I love my new Choose Life bag by Katharine Hamnett. My mum Jo Woods’ Organics spray is also really refreshing, it picks you up when you’re tired of going from show to show.

Erin O’Connor, model: I can’t get through fashion week without pair of flip flops: you need to let your feet breathe in between wearing high heels. And when it gets cold I wear thick socks and Birkenstocks. I always carry around a packet of mints, because champagne does weird things to your breath.

Source : http://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/fashion/article3358209.ece

The London fashion week refuses to ban ultra-thin models

The British fashion industry is ready to defy the government by refusing to rule out the controversial use of ultra-thin models on the catwalk. Organisers of London Fashion Week say they will not dictate to influential international designers about the models they use when they show their winter collections in the UK in two weeks' time.

The revelation follows an emergency meeting between Marks & Spencer chief executive Stuart Rose and the culture secretary, Tessa Jowell, an outspoken critic of the use of waif-like models who she believes set bad examples for young women.

As part-time chairman of the British Fashion Council (BFC), which organises the shows, Mr Rose was summoned at short notice to see Ms Jowell for talks on the issue this week. She is privately pressing for the industry to adopt a more responsible approach to the use of models on catwalks. But the BFC's new guidelines, which are expected to be published in the next few days, are likely to resist a total ban on thin models, along the lines of new rules announced in Spain last September.

Those rules were introduced at the Madrid fashion show after the death of an 18-year-old Uruguayan model who went days without eating. Under the rules, models with a body mass index (BMI) - a measurement of body fat based on weight and height - of below 18 are not allowed to appear. The World Health Organisation considers anyone with a BMI of 18.5 or below to be underweight. Luisel Ramos died of heart failure during the annual fashion show in Montevideo in August; last November a young model from Brazil, Ana Carolina Reston, died from complications related to the eating disorder anorexia.

Ms Jowell, who as women's minister organised a highly publicised "body image" summit in 2000 to examine the effect of social pressures on young women, warned last September of the dangers of girls starving themselves to emulate thin supermodels. But she said it was not an issue for government regulation and instead opted for pressure on the industry behind the scenes.

Her latest intervention underlines the sensitivity of the issue and the controversy of the "size zero" debate in what is a multimillion pound industry.

Yesterday Whitehall sources confirmed that Mr Rose had discussed the issue with Ms Jowell. A spokeswoman for the Department for Culture, Media and Sport, said: "Ministers meet people all the time and we do not comment on their diary commitments. But we will be saying something about this very shortly."

Last week the US equivalent of the BFC - the Council of Fashion Designers of America - published advice before its own show; it is urging designers not to allow young models under 16 to appear on the catwalk and is backing an education programme to teach young models about healthy eating and nutrition.

Last night Ms Jowell's aides said her views on the issue were well-known. In September, she told the Guardian: "It's categorically not an issue for government regulation. It is, however, an issue of major concern for young girls who feel themselves inferior when compared to the stick-thin young women on the catwalk. They all want to look as beautiful as that and see beauty in those terms."

She added: "The other concern must be for the harm it has done to the starving girls who believe emaciation is their route to fame and fortune. Let's see healthy girls of sizes 8, 10 and 12 with confidence that comes with really believing you look great. We shouldn't for one moment underestimate the power of fashion in shaping the attitude of young girls and their feelings about themselves."

Mr Rose said last autumn: "Are we going to ask people to walk through detectors for body mass index and say 'I'm sorry you're rejected'. Outright bans and indeed legislation is definitely not a route we want to go down."

At M&S, where profits from a new range of fashions have soared under the stewardship of Mr Rose, Erin O'Connor, the supermodel in its most recent advertising campaign, has joined the debate, saying clothes were often made in sizes that were too small.

Source : http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2007/jan/25/fashion.health

Couture crunch: The London Fashion Week

Top British fashion designers claim London Fashion Week is being intentionally crushed by its rivals because it has refused to surrender its independence. The flagship UK fashion festival, which is held twice a year and opens today, is facing a threat that could reduce it from six to four days in its spring incarnation next year.

The claims emerged after the rival New York fashion week announced it was going to show its collections a week later than usual in February next year, a move that would cut London Fashion Week down to a bare four days, forcing top designers to abandon it and go elsewhere.

Designers such as Zandra Rhodes claim the London show has been under threat since the marketing giant IMG was thwarted in a bid to secure control of it. IMG has lucrative part or full ownership rights to London Fashion Week's main rivals, New York, Paris and Milan, as well as lesser-known fashion weeks.

It currently owns London's Fashion Fringe, a forum for up-and-coming talent held in Covent Garden, but has no hold over London Fashion Week itself, which is controlled by the British Fashion Council. There have been behind-the-scenes discussions in the past about IMG extending its hold over London Fashion Week, but the British Fashion Council insisted there are no talks taking place at present.

"I heard that there is a problem in that IMG, which owns New York fashion week, wanted to buy it [London Fashion Week] but had been unsuccessful. That is why they've cut a day out of London, so people going there will have to cut short their visits," said Rhodes.

"It's certainly odd that there is no squeeze being put on anybody else," said the designer Betty Jackson. "This is an issue that needs to be raised. They are pushing London because we are not as strong as New York or Milan. London has always been vulnerable from a lot of perspectives – it is young and innovative but this industry functions more on finance than aesthetics."

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), which works closely with IMG, announced it was moving the dates of the New York show back one week in order to give American designers extra time to finish their collections, which are sometimes delayed by mill closures.

It is not possible to move the entire fashion calendar forward to solve the problem – as some have suggested – as this would not leave Italian designers enough time to get their collections in shops.

Many fear the reduced number of days, together with the prospect of dwindling sponsorship, as well as the absence of leading designers such as Alexander McQueen, Ben de Lisi and Gareth Pugh, could seriously undermine the UK's main fashion shop window.

IMG denied it was behind London Fashion Week's problems. "IMG has a close relationship with London Fashion Week and we are always open to discussing ways that we might support their efforts," said a company spokesman. "IMG is not a part of the conversations that are going on regarding the international fashion week schedule, and we will follow the lead of the CFDA in the scheduling of the shows in New York."

An IMG insider admitted that there were ongoing discussions regarding the company's level of involvement with the London event.

"London Fashion Week is rich in talent. We currently have one of the most exciting crops of emerging designers showing," said a spokeswoman for the British Fashion Council.

London Fashion Week is funded by corporate sponsors and a grant from London's City Hall. Several of last year's sponsors have declined to fund it this year. A further threat to funding emerged last week when the London Mayor, Boris Johnson, revealed that government funding may also be under threat if action is not taken on the issue of underweight models.

Source : http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/couture-crunch-london-fashion-week-929879.html

London Fashion Week 2008

London Fashion Week has survived ‘The Mysterious Case of the Clashing Schedules.’

Just last month, it appeared hope was lost. Conspiracy theories were suggested. London Fashion Week was painted as the doomed filling in a ‘doorstep-sized sandwich’, surrounded by the encircling forces of the rival fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Paris. There was talk of LFW being reduced to a three-day or four-day event. Was it to be squeezed out altogether?

It now appears the flagship for our multi-billion pound fashion, clothing and textiles industry has found an acceptable, if not totally triumphant solution.

• In pictures: 'Best of LFW' s/s 2009

The next London Fashion Week, for autumn/winter 2009/10, will be held from Friday, February 20th to Tuesday, February 24th - a total of five days.

True, there will be a one-day overlap with New York Fashion Week, which kicks off the international catwalk schedule. But this is not expected to unduly harm LFW since many of the major American stores are represented by London-based buying agencies and the UK fashion editors who do cover fashion week in the Big Apple will be happy to fly the flag and get back home in time for LFW’s opening day.

Apart from ushering in a new season, February’s LFW will also mark the start of the celebrations for the 25th anniversary of an event which, from modest beginnings, has grown to a major financial money-spinner, bringing £20 million to the London economy per season in direct spend and generating orders worth in excess of £100million.

Over the years, LFW has become famous as a platform for some of the most directional fashion talents in the world. Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Matthew Williamson, Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll and Marios Schwab are just a few of the now globally-renowned names who have made their catwalk debuts at London Fashion Week.

One of the most high-profile events in the UK, London Fashion Week is organised by the British Fashion Council and funded by sponsors including Canon UK, which has been headline sponsor for six consecutive seasons.

The British Fashion Awards gala, sponsored by Swarovski, will be held in London on November 25th. Among the highlights of the evening will be the announcement of the winner of the Designer of the Year ‘Fashion Oscar’ and the presentation of the British Fashion Council’s Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design.

Source : http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/hilaryalexander/3365692/London-Fashion-Week-dates-announced-for-next-year.html

Fashion in Europe

Saint Laurent changed the face of the fashion industry when he became chief designer of the House of Dior at 21.

He designed clothes that reflected women's changing role in society: more confident personally, sexually and in the work-place.

He retired from haute couture in 2002 and had been ill for some time.

Saint Laurent died on Sunday evening in the French capital, the Pierre-Berge-Saint Laurent Foundation announced.

Pierre Berge, the designer's former business and personal partner, said he had died at his home after a long illness. He did not give details.

French President Nicolas Sarkozy paid tribute to Saint Laurent's "creative genius".

'I draw on woman'

"I found my style through women," Saint Laurent once said.

"That's where its strength and vitality comes from because I draw on the body of a woman."

He changed forever what women wear, introducing trouser suits, safari jackets and sweaters, BBC arts correspondent Razia Iqbal says.

Saint Laurent was a great innovator, helping to revitalise haute couture while making ready-to-wear design popular.

The editor of British Vogue, Alexandra Shulman, said he had helped democratise fashion:

"Before that people had small salons for rich people.

"Saint Laurent brought it to the people.

"He was young and groovy. Pop stars were hanging out with him and younger generations related to him."

'Devastating' news

President Sarkozy said the designer had been "the first to elevate haute couture to the rank of art and that gave him global influence".

"Yves Saint Laurent infused his label with his creative genius, elegant and refined personality... because he was convinced that beauty was a necessary luxury for all men and all women," he added.

Speaking on French radio, Pierre Berge said his former partner had empowered women.

"In this sense he was a libertarian, an anarchist and he threw bombs at the legs of society," he said.

"That's how he transformed society and that's how he transformed women."

Famous French embroiderer Francois Lesage, who worked 40 years with the designer, said he was "devastated" by news of his death.

"I have never known a designer who would give so much thought to something when it was proposed to him," he told French TV.

"It is a great grief for me."

Life of ill-health

Born in the Algerian city of Oran at a time when the North African country was a French colony, he had a precocious talent.

His first collection caused a sensation with its gently flared dresses and jackets that set the mould for 1950s fashion.

Within three years, Dior had died and Yves St Laurent had taken his place. He took the world by storm with his trouser suits, highly coloured ethnic prints and designs inspired by the art world.

Taunted as a schoolboy because of his homosexuality, Yves St Laurent suffered mental and physical ill health for much of his life and he appeared in public only rarely




Source : http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/7430487.stm

Batik Indonesian

Batik is one of Java's famous and highly developed art traditions, together with wayang (shadow puppets), gamelan (Javanese orchestra) and keris (the dagger - heirloom).

Anywhere, batik designed materials are clearly seen as women traditional dresses, shirts, uniforms, sarongs, bags, hats, table-cloths, napkins, painting and decorative items, etc, with traditional color of brown, indigo and blue or more colorful ones.

Nowadays, batik is an important industry in many production centers in Java. It is a proof that the people of Java do love the products, long time ago created by their ancestors.

The Symbolic Meaning of Batik's Motifs

The motifs of Batik, especially with old pattern, as in other field of Javanese tradition are symbolizing something. Might be, this is one of the reasons, why people still adore batik up to present date. Some of the motifs are :

1. Sido Mulyo :
   Sido (you should be ), mulyo (happy). Symbolizing 'you should be happy and rich man'.
2. Sido Dadi :
   Symbolizing 'you should be a man/woman as you wish (prosperous, high ranking position, wealthy, etc)'.
3. Satrio Wibowo :
   Symbolizing 'Man with dignity'.
4. Tikel Asmorodono :
   Tikel (more), Asmoro (love), Dono (gift).
   It is meant the one who wears this batik, should be loved more and more by others.

The Process of Batik Making

Batik, in Javanese means 'To Dot'. Basically there are two kinds of batik; Batik Tulis (hand drawn) and Batik Cap (stamped). The price of batik tulis is much more expensive than batik cap.

A canting (a pen like instrument with a small reservoir of liquid wax) is applied to the cloth of batik tulis making. The tracing of the desired design on to the prepared cloth is the first stage of making followed by the technique of applying wax and dye substances. At the final stage of the process, all the wax scraped off and the cloth boiled to remove all traces of the wax. This process of repeatedly waxing and dyeing is the batik process, used until nowadays in Java and other parts of Indonesia.

So, this kind art of batik is an indigenous to the country. The wax used in batik process is a combined product of paraffin, bees-wax, plant resins called gondorukem and mata kucing.

Batik cap, which is also using the waxing process, its process of course faster and easier. But people appreciation of batik tulis is higher, it is really a work of an artist not only a craftsman. It combines the expertise, patience, deep feeling to produce the finest product, and it may take days, weeks and even months to make only a batik tulis

The Cities of Batik

Yogyakarta and Solo are the centers of traditional of batiks, as the north coastal town of Pekalongan is the center of more modern batiks, using more floral and birds motifs. There are some well-known artists of batik design in Yogya and Solo, as well as some big batik manufacturers with famous trademarks.

The growing production of batik makes way to the establishment of mori (woven cotton fabrics) factories in Yogya and Central Java. The Batik research Institute was founded in Yogya.

When Batik is Worn

Batik dresses are worn for several purposes, such as ;

1. Informal Dresses
   It is a free choice, usually for daily casual wear.
2. Formal Occasions
   In some parties, as a state banquets, receptions, etc, the invitees are requested to wear batik. Long sleeves shirts for the men and 'kain batik' (long batik to cover the lower body) for the women.
3. Traditional Occasions
   It is worn to present the traditional wedding ceremonies, special ceremonies for the Royal families, etc.

In a wedding ceremony the bride and the bridegroom wear the same motif of batik Sidomukti, symbolizing a happiness and prosperous life. Using the same motif symbolizing the togetherness. The parents of the bride and the bridegroom wear batik with motif of Truntum, symbolizing the advice of the parents to the newly weds to enter the new life with full of love and confidence.

Traditional Dress

Women's traditional dress, especially in Yogya and Solo court families, consisting of :

1. Jarit or Tapih or Sinjang
   A 'kain panjang' (long cloth of batik) measuring around 2 m x 1 m to cover the lower body, tightened with stagen (large waist band)
2. Kebaya
   It is a traditional long sleeved shirt (the material used is not from batik, usually from silk and other fine materials).
3. Selendang
   It is used as attractive piece of clothing to compliment the traditional dress. The 2 m x 0,5 m selendang cloth hung over one shoulder.
4. Kemben or Semekan
   It is special for ceremonies in Karaton (palace) or Royal family ceremonies. Instead of wearing Kebaya, to cover the upper body, a kemben is worn.

Men's Traditional Dresses

1. Jarit or Bebed
   Men kain panjang, tightened with stagen.
2. Surjan
   Men traditional long sleeved shirt (only for Yogya style) and the material is not batik.
3. Beskap
   Instead of wearing surjan, the men wear a coat (beskap of Solo style or Atila of Yogya style), the materials is not batik.
4. Blangkon
   It is a headgear made from batik.
5. Keris
   The dagger is worn at backside of the waist, as a compliment to the dress.

Dodot

Is a very long jarit to cover the lower body. It is worn only on a very special occasion such as the king coronation by the king himself. The wearing of dodot or kampuhan is very complicated. It may take two hours to wear a dodot with the help of specialist-dressers.

Source : http://www.joglosemar.co.id/batik.html